When asked why so many diners feature in his films, director David Lynch once said: “A poet could write volumes about diners, because they’re so beautiful. They’re brightly lit, with chrome and booths and Naugahyde.”

Oh, how have times have changed. At the Wynwood Diner, a hip new spot that opened up in August, the lighting is dark, the booths are leather(ish), and the chrome has been replaced by carefully distressed matte metals. As the restaurant’s website puts it: “Think Diner 2.0​ – ​Wynwood Diner modernizes one of the most classic pieces of Americana and dropkicks it into the 21st century. Wynwood Diner takes diner favorites​, and steps them up a notch with better ingredients.”

While some wonderful traditional diner elements are lost in the dropkick — like jukeboxes at every table and unlimited refills of cheap coffee — many things are gained. The Wynwood Diner space is modern, beautiful, and perfectly incorporates the neighborhood’s street art vibe. There’s a huge dining area, cozy lounge nook, and beautiful outdoor garden to choose between, as well as a long bar to sit at while you wait (which can be for a while if you don’t have a reservation, especially for weekend brunch).

Most importantly, the food delivers on its promise: it steps up classics with better ingredients. The menu mixes standard heart-stopping diner dishes — biscuits and sausage gravy; meatloaf; burgers;  chicken and waffles — with healthier options such as an avocado salad and a grilled vegetable sandwich. All of it is fresh, well-presented, and delicious. There’s also a good selection of wines and beers as well as an adventurous cocktail menu .

Traditionalists will also be pleased with this very smart choice: breakfast is served all day. Luckily, some things never change.